Wales: The Red Dragon Tour
ITINERARY
DAY 1: Wednesday, 2nd September
MORNING
Welcome reception, followed by buffet lunch at the St David’s Hotel, Cardiff.
Experience a warm Welsh welcome at St David's, a landmark five-star hotel nestled on the picturesque Cardiff Bay waterfront. Its iconic architecture boasts unparalleled views and sets the stage for an unforgettable two-night stay. Whether you're unwinding in the award-winning Spa, indulging in exquisite dining at Tir a Môr or simply relaxing, every moment is infused with luxury and relaxation. The hotel promises an unforgettable experience from the moment you arrive. Make yourself at home and let St David's be your gateway to the best of Wales.
AFTERNOON
Visit Chepstow Castle.
Beautifully preserved Chepstow Castle stretches out along a limestone cliff above the River Wye. It is a beautifully preserved masterpiece of medieval engineering, like a history lesson in stone. There’s no better place in Britain to see how castles gradually evolved to cope with ever-more destructive weaponry – and the grandiose ambitions of their owners. For more than six centuries, Chepstow was home to some of the wealthiest and most powerful men of the medieval and Tudor ages.
Building was started in 1067 by Earl William FitzOsbern, a close friend of William the Conqueror, making it one of the first Norman strongholds in Wales. In turn, William Marshal, Earl of Pembroke, Roger Bigod, Earl of Norfolk, and Charles Somerset, Earl of Worcester, the last of the male Beauforts, all made their mark before the castle declined after the Civil War.
Magnates and power-brokers were constantly on the move. Chepstow was just one residence among their vast estates – an impressive shell into which they would bring their gold and silver vessels, rich silk, tapestries and brightly painted furniture.
Nowadays, it is managed by CASW, the historic environment service of the Welsh Government, and has many fantastic events throughout the year, from re-enactments and falconry displays, to live music and theatre.
Guests may also like to visit the Priory Church of St Mary, a 5-minute walk from the castle entrance, to see the tombs of Elizabeth, Countess of Worcester (who testified against Anne Boleyn) and the regicide Henry Marten.
EVENING
Welcome drinks and dinner at the St David’s Hotel, Cardiff.
Overnight: St David’s Hotel, Cardiff
DAY 2: Thursday, 3rd September
MORNING
Visit Tretower Court and Castle.
This two-in-one architectural wonder spans 900 years of history. So striking was the massive circular tower built by Roger Picard II that his castle became known as Tretower – or ‘the place of the tower’.
Over two centuries, from about 1100, the Picards transformed themselves from invading Norman adventurers to powerful Welsh lords. Their monumental tower with four storeys and stone walls nine-feet thick wasn’t merely for protection; it was social climbing made visible, an open imitation of the castles at Pembroke and Skenfrith.
It would be remarkable enough on its own, but Tretower is two wonders in one. Just across the castle green lies an entire medieval court that became a byword for magnificence. It was the creation of Sir Roger Vaughan and his descendants. During the Wars of the Roses, Sir Roger became one of the most powerful men in Wales – and Tretower reflected his fame. It became a magnet for medieval Welsh poets who drank its fine wines and sang the praises of its generous host. Now, thanks to meticulous restoration, you can vividly imagine being one of Tretower’s most honoured guests. You’ll find the great hall laid out just as it might have been for a lavish feast in the 1460s. In the recreated 15th century garden, you can stroll among fragrant white roses that symbolise Sir Roger’s passionate Yorkist sympathies.
Visit Abergavenny for an independent lunch.
Nestled at the edge of the Brecon Beacons National Park, Abergavenny is more than just a gateway to the Black Mountains; it's a town shaped by walkers. Whether you're drawn by legends, landscapes, or the lure of a well-earned pub lunch, Abergavenny offers walking experiences that stir the imagination and soothe the soul. With its annual Abergavenny Food Festival, the town is also mecca for foodies – and there are plenty of gorgeous gastro pubs, ancient inns and restaurants to try. The town has regular markets where you can buy quality produce grown locally. Abergavenny has history and heritage in spades – castles, medieval mansions, Roman remains and standing stones abound in the area. The Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal is on the doorstep and the Blaenavon World Heritage site and Big Pit mine are just up the road.
AFTERNOON
Visit Raglan Castle
Raglan Castle has an unmistakable silhouette crowning a ridge amid glorious Monmouthshire countryside, and is the grandest castle ever built by Welshmen.
Sir William ap Thomas, the ‘blue knight of Gwent’, built the moated Great Tower of 1435 that still dominates this mighty fortress-palace. His son Sir William Herbert, Earl of Pembroke, created the gatehouse with its flared ‘machicolations’. These stone arches allowed missiles to be rained down on attackers. But Raglan came 150 years later than the turbulent heyday of castle-building. It was designed to impress as much as to intimidate. Dame Katherine Plantagenet, Richard III’s bastard daughter, married Pembroke’s son, William Herbert, Earl of Huntingdon, and lived here; she may have been buried in the nearby church.
Under various earls of Worcester, Raglan was transformed into a magnificent country seat with a fashionable long gallery and one of the finest Renaissance gardens in Britain.
Visit Goodrich Castle
Superbly sited high above the River Wye, Goodrich Castle is still largely intact and protected by wide, deep ditches cut into the rock. This magnificent red sandstone castle, with a 12th-century keep standing three stories high and extensive remains from the 13th and 14th centuries, looks across the beautiful Wye Valley to Symonds Yat. Once inside, a free audio tour recounts the infamous 'siege of Goodrich castle' in the English Civil War.
Goodrich is many castle specialists' favourite site. It combines the best features of a 'military' castle, with portcullises, drawbridge, arrow-loops, barbican and so on, with a very fine country house, complete with big windows, fireplaces and wash-basins. Many visitors to castles want to know what it was like to live in one - at Goodrich, we have a really good idea.
EVENING
Dinner is independent tonight.
Overnight: St David’s Hotel, Cardiff
DAY 3: Friday, 4th September
Check out of St David’s Hotel
MORNING
Visit Cardiff Castle.
Cardiff Castle, situated in the heart of the capital, is one of Wales’s leading heritage attractions and a site of international significance. Walk through the gates and you will discover a story 2,000 years in the making. a truly remarkable site with a history that spans over 2000 years. Roman soldiers slept here, noble knights held court here, and the Bute family, with extraordinary wealth and vision, transformed the castle into a romantic Victorian fantasy. ‘Eccentric genius’ architect William Burges was given free rein to create the amazingly lavish and opulent interiors, each breathtaking room rich with murals, stained glass, gilding and superb craftsmanship.
Recent developments include the opening of the Wartime Shelters, an evocative re-creation of a bygone era when the castle’s tunnels were used as a place of refuge during the Second World War air raids. Beautiful Victorian stained-glass windows portray Richard III, George, Duke of Clarence, and Henry VII and their wives.
Visit St Fagans National Museum of History.
St Fagans is one of Europe's leading open–air museums and Wales's most popular heritage attraction. It was winner of the 2019 UK Art Fund Museum of the Year. Here, you can explore the stories of the people of Wales and take a walk through history. The Museum stands in the grounds of St Fagans Castle and gardens, a late 16th century manor house donated to the people of Wales by the Earl of Plymouth in 1948. More than 50 historic buildings from all over Wales have been re-built at the Museum, including a Victorian school, a medieval church and a Workmen’s Institute.
Rhys ap Thomas's intricately carved bedstead (c. 1505) has been moved by the National Museum of Wales to the Abernodwydd Farmhouse in St Fagans National Museum of History. One of the bed panels almost certainly shows Rhys's role in the final moments of Richard III at the Battle of Bosworth.
Free time at St Fagan’s National Museum of History for an independent lunch.
AFTERNOON
Visit Carmarthen Castle.
The castle at Carmarthen, on its rocky eminence overlooking the River Twyi, must have dominated the medieval town just as, a little way to the east, the Roman fort must have dominated the Roman town a thousand years before. The castle is first mentioned in 1094. An important stronghold, it passed into the hands of the Crown and quickly became the administrative centre of south-west Wales. as it had been under the Romans. Inevitably, it underwent a series of attacks and phases of rebuilding during the turbulent struggles between Welsh and English in the 12th and 13th centuries.
Further buildings were added in the 14th century, including the present gatehouse and the south-west tower. The castle remained important in the 15th century and required considerable repair after being sacked by Owain Glyndwr in 1405. By 1456, Edmund Tudor, Earl of Richmond, the father of Henry VII, had gained possession of Carmarthen Castle as the king's representative. He died here that year, of bubonic plague.
The castle became the county prison in 1789, and the building of the gaol in 1869 effectively destroyed the open space of the outer ward. This and the building of the Council offices has also not enhanced its surroundings, yet enough remains to make a visit worthwhile.
Surprisingly few traces survive of the medieval town of “New Carmarthen,” which grew up around the castle. The town walls and four gates, the Augustinian priory and the Franciscan house of the grey friars, have all disappeared. A small section of Civil War defences, thrown up by the Royalists, survives to the south-west of the town. They are known as “The Bulwarks,” and consist of an earthwork bank and a well-preserved four-sided bastion.
Guests may like to visit nearby St Peter's Church to see the tomb of Rhys ap Thomas.
Check into Lamphey Court Hotel.
Lamphey Court Hotel is a 4-star Georgian mansion in peaceful Pembrokeshire. It offers elegant rooms, a full Spa with an infinity pool, fine dining and peaceful surroundings. This relaxing retreat stands almost next door to the medieval Lamphey Bishop’s Palace, where Henry VII’s parents spent their honeymoon, and close to Wales’ most stunning coastlines. This is the perfect base to relax, explore and experience the beauty of West Wales in style.
EVENING
Drinks and dinner at Lamphey Court Hotel.
Overnight: Lamphey Court Hotel.
DAY 4: Saturday, 5th September
MORNING
Visit Lamphey Bishop’s Palace.
The extensive remains of Lamphey Bishop’s Palace lie in pretty countryside near Pembroke. Life couldn’t have been that hard for the medieval bishops of St Davids. These worldly, wealthy, influential men enjoyed their home comforts – as you’ll see when you wander around Lamphey’s palatial grounds, mainly the work of the dynamic Henry de Gower, bishop of St Davids from 1328 to 1347. The bishops used Lamphey as a country retreat, an escape from the burdens of Church and State.
Although just a short distance from St Davids itself, it was a million miles away from the simple, strict life led by austere ‘Dewi the Waterdrinker’, St David, patron saint of Wales, who had lived many centuries earlier. The medieval prelates would have led the privileged lives of country gentlemen, enjoying the luxuries of private accommodation, a grand great hall, first-floor chamber, fishponds, fruit orchards, vegetable gardens and 144-acre park.
One fascinating detail? It’s believed that Henry Tudor (later Henry VII) was conceived here in 1456, making this peaceful ruin a small but significant part of royal history.
Visit Carew Castle.
The magnificent Carew Castle has a history spanning 2,000 years. Set in a stunning location, overlooking a 23-acre millpond, the castle displays the development of a Norman fortification into an Elizabethan country house. Set in a stunning location overlooking a 23-acre Millpond, the Castle is one of the most architecturally diverse in Wales: viewed from the west, it’s still a Norman fortress, yet from the north, we see a splendid Elizabethan mansion.
The site also includes the only restored Tidal Mill in Wales, an 11th-century Celtic cross, a medieval bridge and a picnic area all linked by a mile-long circular walk with magnificent views over the Millpond.
Visit Pembroke for an independent lunch in Pembroke.
The ancient town of Pembroke retains its historic character. Situated on a spit of land protruding into the Pembroke River and the Mill Pond, the old town centre is delineated by medieval wall foundations, associated with Pembroke Castle. Along Main Street leading to the castle are numerous listed buildings, contributing to the overall historic character.
The medieval town of Pembroke, birthplace of Henry Tudor, is one of the oldest boroughs in Wales. Dominated by its magnificent castle, Pembroke grew prosperous through its sea trade under the powerful rule of the earls of Pembroke, the greatest of whom was William the Marshal.
Pembroke again rose to pre-eminence during the 17th-century Civil War when Oliver Cromwell himself came to Pembroke to oversee the destruction of the castle and its walls. While Pembroke was never again to assume national importance, the 18th century saw a revival of its fortunes and it was described by Daniel Defoe as “the largest, richest, and at this time the most flourishing town in all of south Wales”. The following centuries witnessed great changes and fluctuations in the fortunes of Pembroke as it evolved from thriving port and agricultural centre to the tourist destination it is today.
AFTERNOON
Visit Pembroke Castle.
Established by the Normans in 1093, and idyllically set on the banks of the river estuary, Pembroke is one of Wales’s most impressive and formidable castles. Its unique Great Keep was built by Europe’s “Greatest Knight”, William the Marshal. The castle was the seat of power in West Wales for centuries and is largely intact. Its endless passages, tunnels and stairways are there to explore, while exhibitions tell the tale of its medieval life. You can climb to the top of the 80-foot keep for magnificent views across Pembrokeshire, or descend into Wogan Cavern, a naturally formed cave that was once home to Britain's earliest humans.
Pembroke Castle is famous as the birthplace of the Tudor dynasty. Here in 1457, thirteen-year-old Margaret Beaufort gave birth to the future Henry VII while under the protection of her brother-in-law, Jasper Tudor, Earl of Pembroke. On his death in 1495, the earldom passed to the Crown. In 1532, Henry VIII bestowed the title of Lady Marquess of Pembroke on Anne Boleyn.
EVENING
Dinner is independent tonight.
Overnight: Lamphey Court Hotel
DAY 5: Sunday, 6th September
Check out of Lamphey Court Hotel.
MORNING
Drive to Aberystwyth
AFTERNOON
Free time in Aberystwyth to visit the castle on the seafront and the town, and for an independent lunch.
Aberystwyth, meaning the mouth of the river Ystwyth, and commonly and colloquially known simply as ‘Aber’, sits in the middle of the rugged Ceredigion coastline. It's one of the biggest towns in Mid-Wales and home to the University of Aberystwyth and Aberystwyth Arts Centre, which make this coastal town a diverse and vibrant place to live, work and visit.
Aberystwyth town centre is spread around variety of interesting roads - the street names and architecture reflect the history and growth of the town since the Middle Ages. There are lots of independent shops in Aberystwyth, so if you are stocking up on holiday gifts, bring an empty case. You can expect to hear plenty of people using Welsh as they go about their daily lives.
Visit Harlech Castle.
Harlech Castle crowns a sheer rocky crag overlooking the dunes far below, while the rugged peaks of Snowdonia rise as a backdrop. Against fierce competition from Conwy, Caernarfon and Beaumaris, this is probably the most spectacular setting for any of the castles built by Edward I in the late thirteenth century during his conquest of Wales. All four are designated as World Heritage Sites.
Harlech was completed from ground to battlements in just seven years under the guidance of Edward’s gifted architect, Master James of St George. Its classic ‘walls within walls’ design makes the most of daunting natural defences. Even when completely cut off by the rebellion of Madog ap Llewelyn in 1294-5, the castle held out – thanks to the ‘Way from the Sea’. This path of 108 steps rising steeply up the rock face allowed the besieged defenders to be fed and watered by ship.
In 1404, the castle fell to the charismatic prince Owain Glyndŵr during the last major Welsh rebellion against English rule. Together with nearby Machynlleth it became the centre of Glyndŵr’s inspiring vision of an independent Wales.
Harlech is easier to conquer today. An incredible ‘floating’ footbridge allows you to enter this great castle as Master James intended – for the first time in 600 years.
Check into The Quay Hotel, Deganwy.
Set on the idyllic Conwy Estuary, the luxury 4* Quay Hotel and Spa commands awe-inspiring panoramic views of North Wales and the magnificent Conwy Castle. Its 80 en-suite luxury rooms have been exquisitely designed, incorporating all the style and comfort you would expect from an award-winning hotel. Most guest bedrooms feature private balconies or terraced areas overlooking the Zen courtyard, Deganwy marina or the Conwy estuary. There is an on-site Spa, indoor heated swimming pool, sauna, steam room and gym.
The Quay Hotel & Spa offers a choice of dining venues, including the Ebb & Flow Restaurant with breathtaking views, showcasing the excellence of Welsh fine dining. The Cove Bar and Terrace is a relaxed, informal setting to enjoy alfresco dining. All dishes are perfectly prepared by their Executive Head Chef Ian Watson. The Cove Bar and Terrace also tempts residents with a continental breakfast every morning.
The Quay Hotel and Spa is only a short drive from the Victorian town of Llandudno and the historic town of Conwy, and it lies within a 45 minute drive to the breath-taking Snowdonia national park. The Quay Hotel and Spa offers a truly warm Welsh welcome, with almost every area of the hotel presenting amazing views of the Conwy Estuary and surrounding mountains. It’s a great location for exploring North Wales.
EVENING
Drinks and dinner at The Quay Hotel, Deganwy.
Overnight: The Quay Hotel, Deganwy
DAY 6: Monday, 7th September
MORNING
Visit Caernarfon Castle.
Caernarfon Castle is recognised around the world as one of the greatest buildings of the Middle Ages. This fortress-palace on the banks of the River Seiont is grouped with Edward I’s other mighty castles at Conwy, Beaumaris and Harlech as a World Heritage Site, but for sheer scale and architectural drama, Caernarfon stands alone.
Here Edward and his military architect Master James of St George erected a castle, town walls and a quay all at the same time. This gigantic building project eventually took 47 years and cost a staggering £25,000.
The castle was born out of bitter war with Welsh princes and its immense curtain walls and daunting King’s Gate were designed to withstand assault. But the polygonal towers, eagle statues and multi-coloured masonry sent a more subtle message. These echoed imperial Roman architecture, especially the walls of Constantinople. They also recalled the Welsh myth of Macsen Wledig, who dreamed of a great fort at the mouth of a river. So Caernarfon is a castle of dreams, a legend brought to life. Even after 700 years. it still stirs the imagination like no other Welsh castle.
The Eagle Tower, with its three great turrets and 18-feet thick walls, is the crowning glory of Caernarfon Castle. It was here that the most illustrious residents of the royal palace slept in lofty splendour. When Edward I and his Queen, Eleanor of Castile, first came to Caernarfon in the summer of 1283 it was barely a gleam in the eye of Master James of St George. They bedded down in timber-framed apartments in the middle of a building site instead. When they returned the following Easter the queen was heavily pregnant. This time the tower, although far short of its final soaring height, was ready for them.
On 25th April 1284, Eleanor gave birth to a son, Edward of Caernarfon. In 1301, he was presented to the Welsh nobility as a prince ‘that was borne in Wales and could speak never a word of English’. Thus he was the very first English Prince of Wales – and all the money from the Crown’s Welsh lands was now his. It was a bitter pill to swallow for the newly conquered nation.
The birthplace of the future Edward II was probably deliberately chosen. Right from the beginning, Caernarfon Castle had been singled out for greatness. Its imperial ambition and epic scale made it a fitting home for the king’s representative in Wales.
For the last 700 years, the title Prince of Wales has traditionally been bestowed on the eldest son of the reigning monarch. But it wasn’t until 1911 that Caernarfon again played a central role by hosting the investiture of the future Edward VIII as Prince of Wales - thanks to Britain’s only Welsh prime minister so far, David Lloyd George. Most famously it was here, in 1969, that King Charles III was invested as Prince of Wales.
Free time for an independent lunch in Caernarfon.
Venturing beyond the castle grounds, guests can immerse themselves in the rich history and diverse attractions of the town of Caernarfon. The 14th-century walls are a popular draw, offering breathtaking views of the picturesque countryside. Another noteworthy site, St. Mary’s Church, captivates visitors with its imposing tower and historic architectural style.
Culture aficionados will delight in Caernarfon’s vibrant arts scene. The Galeri Caernarfon, a dynamic arts centre, hosts a variety of exhibitions, performances, and events throughout the year. The town also boasts an assortment of independent shops, galleries, and cafes, where guests can appreciate local culture and savour delectable Welsh cuisine.
In summary, Caernarfon Castle and its surrounding town are essential destinations for anyone intrigued by history, culture or the great outdoors. The castle’s awe-inspiring walls and defensive features represent just a fraction of the allure this extraordinary location holds, and visitors are certain to be enchanted by the beauty and rich heritage of this remarkable corner of Wales.
AFTERNOON
Visit Gwydir Castle
Gwydir Castle is an ancient Welsh house situated in the beautiful Conwy Valley, in the foothills of Snowdonia. Regarded as one of the finest Tudor houses in Wales, the castle was formerly the ancestral home of the powerful Wynn family and is set within a Grade I-listed, 10-acre garden.
The oldest part of the building, the Hall Range, was built by the Coetmore family in the 14th Century. The Coetmores commanded longbowmen at the major battles of Agincourt and Poitiers. Around 1500, Gwydir was acquired by Meredith ap Ieuan ap Robert, founder of the powerful Wynn dynasty, who rebuilt Gwydir Castle as a Tudor courtyard house incorporating re-used gothic architectural elements from nearby Maenan Abbey. The Wynns of Gwydir, who were descended from the original Princes of Gwynedd, became deeply influential both culturally and politically throughout the Tudor and Stuart periods. The family also built the wonderful Elizabethan townhouse of Plas Mawr in Conwy town. Further additions at Gwydir date from c.1600 and c.1826.
Remarkably, the original 1640s dining room was acquired by William Randolph Hearst, who was immortalised in the Hollywood film Citizen Kane. The entire room was recovered from New York’s Metropolitan Museum in 1996 by the current owners, Judy Corbett and Peter Welford. Judy and Peter, who acquired the castle in 1994, have restored the property from dereliction through a labour of love. Its restoration has taken over twenty years to complete and is still a work-in-progress by its current owners.
Famed for its peacocks, its beautiful gardens and furnishings (and its resident ghosts), Gwydir Castle is one of the most enchanting places to visit in Wales. Enjoy a stroll through exquisite gardens and delve into the authenticity and atmosphere of one of Wales’ finest restored buildings. Deeply evocative and atmospheric, Gwydir was given the highest rating (4 stars) by Simon Jenkins in his book Wales, Churches, Houses, Castles.
EVENING
Dinner is independent tonight.
Overnight: The Quay Hotel, Deganwy.
DAY 7: Tuesday, 8th September
MORNING
Visit Conwy Castle
This magnificent medieval fortress still towers over town after 700 years. Thanks to
restored spiral staircases in its great towers you can now walk a complete circuit around the battlements of Conwy Castle, one of the most magnificent medieval fortresses in Europe.
In the distance rise the craggy mountains of Eryri (Snowdonia) and spread out below you are the harbour and narrow streets of Conwy – still protected by an unbroken 1,400-yard ring of town walls. It’s enough to take the breath away, especially when you consider that King Edward I and his architect Master James of St George built both castle and walls in a barely believable four years between 1283 and 1287. Conwy takes its place alongside Edward’s other great castles at Beaumaris, Harlech and Caernarfon as a World Heritage Site.
This famous fortress is exceptionally well preserved. It contains the most intact set of medieval royal apartments in Wales. The high curtain wall and eight lofty towers rise almost as impressively as when they were built more than 700 years ago. So don’t be afraid to climb those staircases, if you can, for the full Conwy experience. There isn’t a better place in Britain to stand on the battlements and dream.
Visit Plas Mawr.
Never was a building better named. Plas Mawr, or the Great Hall, is arguably the finest surviving Elizabethan town house anywhere in Britain. It was built in a golden age when fabulously wealthy merchants invested in mansions, rich fittings and lavish entertaining.
Robert Wynn, third son of the owner of Gwydir Castle, wanted a piece of the action. He served Tudor diplomats and travelled to the most splendid royal courts of Europe. His fortune made, he bought a mansion house in Conwy for £200 and between 1576 and 1585, turned it into a celebration of his life, times and wealth.
The house’s main frontage is discreetly hidden away in a steep narrow lane, so the High Street gatehouse only hints at the grandeur within, as you rise via a series of terraces to explore 17 impressive rooms. You won’t have to look far for clues about its creator. Wynn’s initials – R.W. – can be found all over Plas Mawr’s vividly painted ornamental plasterwork.
Over the centuries, Plas Mawr became a courthouse, a school and even an art gallery. Perhaps this continual use enabled it to remain so miraculously intact. Now, four years of painstaking restoration have recreated the Elizabethan garden and returned all the light-filled rooms to their original glory.
Optional walk around the medieval walls of Conwy.
Visit Conwy and discover much more than just an ancient castle. Its town walls are among the finest and most complete in Europe. Stretching almost uninterrupted around Conwy’s medieval heart, they run for three quarters of a mile, with 21 towers and three original gateways along their length. If you’ve got a head for heights, you can take a walk along the top of the wall as it loops around Conwy’s cramped medieval streets. The best free show in town, it’s an exhilarating experience that underlines the sheer scale of this magnificent piece of medieval construction, as well as offering stunning views of towering Castell Conwy, the estuary and Eryri (Snowdonia).
Independent lunch in Conwy.
AFTERNOON
Visit Rhuddlan Castle.
Rhuddlan Castle is an awesome feat of engineering that towers above the River Clwyd. Edward I liked his castles to be on the coast. It was safer that way. If his ruthless campaign to subdue the Welsh ran into trouble, supplies could still get through by sea. But at Rhuddlan, several miles inland, the plan was to use a river instead. There was just one problem – the meandering Clwyd wasn’t quite in the right place. So Edward conscripted hundreds of ditch-diggers to deepen and divert its course.
More than seven centuries later Rhuddlan still looks like a castle that was worth moving a river for. Begun in 1277, it was the first of the revolutionary concentric, or ‘walls within walls’, castles designed by master architect James of St George. Most impressive was the inner diamond-shaped stronghold with its twin-towered gatehouses. This sat inside a ring of lower turreted walls. Further beyond was a deep dry moat linked to the River Clwyd.
This bristling statement of Edwardian intent guarded a new town surrounded by ditched defences. You can still clearly make out the medieval grid layout of the streets in modern-day Rhuddlan.
EVENING
Drinks and dinner at Bodnant Welsh Food.
Set in the heart of the Conwy Valley with spectacular views, Bodnant Welsh Food is the place to go for shopping and eating, and showcases the very best Welsh artisan produce, from organic vegetables to cheeses, mountain lamb to tasty treats. The beautifully converted 18th-century Furnace Farm houses an award-winning farm shop, tea-room, restaurant, bakery, dairy, butchery, cookery school and beekeeping centre. Five-star onsite accommodation is also available.
It’s a foodie heaven. The views overlooking the River Conwy are pretty good too. They host celebrations and we will be dining in one of their private event spaces.
Overnight: The Quay Hotel, Deganwy.
DAY 8: Wednesday, 9th September
MORNING
Visit Beaumaris Castle.
Beaumaris Castle, a fortress of near-perfect symmetry, is an unfinished masterpiece
Standing on the island of Ynys Môn, the Isle of Anglesey, it is famous as the greatest castle never built. It was the last of the royal strongholds created by Edward I in Wales – and perhaps his masterpiece.
Here Edward and his architect James of St George took full advantage of a blank canvas: the ‘beau mareys’ or ‘beautiful marsh’ beside the Menai Strait. By now they’d already constructed the great castles of Conwy, Caernarfon and Harlech. This was to be their crowning glory, the castle to end all castles.
The result was a fortress of immense size and near-perfect symmetry. No fewer than four concentric rings of formidable defences included a water-filled moat with its very own dock. The outer walls alone bristled with 300 arrow loops.
But lack of money and trouble brewing in Scotland meant that building work had ceased by the 1320s. The south gatehouse and the six great towers in the inner ward never reached their intended height. The Llanfaes gate was barely started before being abandoned.
Thus the distinctive squat shape of Beaumaris evokes a dream that never quite came true. Nevertheless, it takes its rightful place on the global stage as part of the Castles and Town Walls of King Edward in Gwynedd World Heritage Site.
Gloriously incomplete, Beaumaris is perhaps the supreme achievement of the greatest military architect of the age.
Independent lunch in Beaumaris.
Beaumaris is a captivating seaside town, with its mix of medieval, Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian architecture. A ‘must’ is to take a walk through the town, starting with a stroll along the seafront, taking in the pier and the views over the Menai Strait and Snowdonia then continuing through the charming streets with their picturesque cottages, many painted in soft pastel colours. Beaumaris has lively cafês, pubs, restaurants and hotels, with good food to suit every taste, and some excellent shopping marked by quality independent traders.
AFTERNOON
Visit Plas Newydd (subject to opening times).
The ancestral home of the Marquess of Anglesey is majestically situated on the Isle of Anglesey. Plas Newydd is a Grade 1-listed house and garden standing on the banks of the Menai Strait. With the mountains of Eryri (Snowdonia) as a dramatic backdrop, it has 40 acres of peaceful garden and 129 acres of woodland and parkland. There is plenty of space to relax and explore, with gently sloping lawns, towering trees, and beautiful borders to discover.
The stone-built house was converted into a gothic ‘fantasy’ by its most famous inhabitants, ‘The Ladies of Llangollen', Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Sarah Ponsonby, two upper-class Irish women who lived together as a couple in a relationship that scandalised and fascinated their contemporaries. They arrived at Plas Newydd in 1780 and lived there for the next 50 years, becoming well-known figures and inspiring admiration. Their notable visitors included the Duke of Wellington, the poets Wordsworth and Shelley, Sir Walter Scott and Josiah Wedgewood. The house is home to a Waterloo-inspired military museum, works of art, regular exhibitions and, at its heart, Rex Whistler's famous 58-foot fantasy landscape painting.
EVENING
Dinner is independent tonight.
Overnight: The Quay Hotel, Deganwy.
DAY 9: Thursday, 10th September
MORNING
Visit Penrhyn Castle
The National Trust’s Penrhyn Castle is a stunning neo-Norman castle built by famous Victorian architect Thomas Hopper. It’s a 19th century fantasy castle with industrial and colonial foundations, with a dominating stone façade that hides more than just its internal red-brick construction. The unique architecture, opulent interiors and fine art collection sit alongside a history of sugar and slate fortunes, of social unrest and the longest-running industrial dispute in British history. You will discover Penrhyn’s history in its vast rooms, neo-Norman stairways and Victorian kitchens. The extensive grounds are perfect for exploring and enjoying spectacular views of Snowdonia and the North Wales coast. There’s something for everyone at Penrhyn - just expect the unexpected.
AFTERNOON
Visit Portmeirion for an independent lunch.
Portmeirion is a place like no other, an enchanting Italianate style village on the coast of North Wales, an ideal visitor destination. Designed by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis in the early 20th century, Portmeirion's Riviera-inspired houses, ornamental garden and campanile are a unique and beautiful pocket of madness. Williams-Ellis based Portmeirion on the town of Portofino in tribute to the atmosphere of the Mediterranean. The town sits at the edge of its own Snowdonian peninsula and incorporates fragments from several pre-existing buildings, which are assembled in a post-modern bricolage. The sense of nostalgia and pastiche that emanates from Portmeirion has been a key element of its architectural legacy.
Williams-Ellis’s village is compact, but his clever use of arches, slopes and window sizes makes it seem larger than it is. The Rough Guide to Wales calls it 'a gorgeous visual poem'. Take time to admire the Gothic Pavilion, Bristol Colonnade, Hercules Hall and Belvedere. Statues, corbels and whimsical details fill every nook with interest. From the start, Williams-Ellis designed Portmeirion as a tourist destination, with Hotel Portmeirion as its waterfront hub. Recent upgrades have been faithful to his quirky spirit.
Battery Square is a pretty little plaza containing guest accommodation, the Mermaid Spa and Caffi'r Sgwâr - a café with outdoor tables on the cobbles – a great spot to grab a coffee, Mediterranean-style. The Round House, the cottage where Number Six lived in the cult TV series The Prisoner, is now a shop selling nostalgic memorabilia.
Portmeirion has long been one of Wales’ most popular destinations. Aside from its iconic architecture, scenic surroundings and vast gardens, it is home to two hip hotels, a huddle of historic cottages, a spa, a variety of shops and award-winning restaurants. Enjoy a unique Welsh getaway, lapped by golden sands, sparkling waters and wild woodlands.
After lunch, there will be time to explore the village, 70 acres of gardens, the white sandy beaches of the Dwyryd Estruary and the Amis Reunis, (Friends Reunited), the famous "Stone Boat" of Portmeirion.
EVENING
7.30: Gala farewell drinks and dinner at Palé Hall.
Experience luxury at Palé Hall, a 5-star country house hotel in Snowdonia where historic grandeur meets contemporary excellence. Its award-winning dining experience has earned it 3 AA Rosettes.
Palé Hall is an extraordinary Victorian estate set within 50 acres of immaculate gardens and parkland. Our gala farewell dinner will be hosted by this luxurious retreat where every detail is crafted for guests.
Overnight: The Quay Hotel, Deganwy.
DAY 10: Friday, 11th September
Check out of The Quay Hotel, Deganwy
MORNING
Visit St Winefride's Well in Holywell, the National Catholic Shrine.
The holy well at St Winefride’s has been a place of pilgrimage since at least 1115. It is said to spring from the spot where 7th-century Welsh abbot St Beuno brought his niece Winefride back to life, though it’s likely that the story may actually have much older, pagan origins. Reputedly the oldest continually visited pilgrim site in Britain, the holy well is on the route of the North Wales Pilgrims’ Way that travels along the Llŷn Peninsula to Bardsey Island, the legendary ‘Isle of 20,000 Saints’.
In the late fifteenth century, Margaret of Beaufort, the mother of Henry VII, built a chapel next to the well, leading to a bathing pool for pilgrims. Set into the hillside, it’s a striking and unusual building, richly decorated and exceptionally well-built. On the bottom floor, the spring water bubbles up into a star-shaped basin beneath an elaborately vaulted ceiling before flowing out into a more recent outdoor pool, where pilgrims still visit to bathe in its waters with their claimed healing properties.
AFTERNOON
At noon, we will visit Chester Cathedral.
Chester Cathedral stands at the centre of this most historic city. According to legend, there has been a Christian church on the site since Roman times while the present building was begun in 1092 as a Benedictine monastery. The monastic foundation was dissolved in 1540, but the building survived as the ‘new’ Cathedral of the Diocese of Chester created in 1541, and therefore little damage was done; as a result Chester Cathedral is a wonderful example of a medieval monastery. Within its walls lie treasures of national significance including the finest medieval choir stalls in existence and the best pre-Raphaelite mosaics in the country, the shrine of a medieval Saint, a fabulous Victorian organ, a seventeenth century Narwhal tusk, nineteenth century church furnishings and more. The Cathedral is the centre of community life in Chester, hosting many special services and events each year; it is a place which uniquely represents both the heritage of the City as well as present day community life.
A full lunch will be served at the Grosvenor Hotel, Chester, after which the tour ends.
The 5* Chester Grosvenor has been creating memories since 1865. It is owned by the Duke of Westminster and is located in the heart of Chester, overlooking the famous Eastgate Clock which is said to be the most photographed clock in England after Big Ben.